Costumes of Ancient India: A Tapestry Woven Through Time
The Vedic
Age: Simplicity and Functionality
The
earliest textual references to clothing appear in the Vedic Literature, dating
back to around 1500 BCE. The Rig Veda mentions basic garments like adhivastra (an outer veil), kurlra (a head-dress or ornament),
and pratidhi (a part of a
woman's dress). Linen and wool were the primary materials, reflecting the
climate and available resources. Gold was highly valued, used extensively for
crafting ornaments like niska
and rukma, which adorned the
neck and ears.
The
Atharva Veda provides a more detailed picture, describing garments as
comprising an inner cover, an outer cover, and a chest-cover. Terms like nivi (underwear), upavasana (veil), vavri (upper garment), usnlsa, kumba, and tirlta
(various head-dresses or ornaments) offer a sense of the developing complexity
of attire. Footwear (updnaha)
and blankets (kambala) were
also mentioned, indicating an awareness of practical needs. While linen and
wool remained dominant, silk began to appear, signifying a growing
sophistication in weaving techniques and access to luxury materials. Cosmetics
were used, and emphasis was placed on hair care, reflecting a nascent sense of
personal grooming and aesthetics.
The Age
of Brahmanas and Sutras: Refinement and Social Differentiation
The age
of the Brahmanas saw an increased emphasis on dress and decoration. Knitting,
sewing, and weaving techniques were well-established, enabling the creation of
more elaborate garments. Wool, cotton, and silk were commonly used, with the
basic dress consisting of a main portion, an outer garment, and an
under-garment (nivi). Gold and
silver ornaments remained popular, with necklaces made of gold or pearls
gaining prominence.
The Sutra
age witnessed further diversification in materials, with garments made from
cotton, wool, flax, hemp, animal skin, silk, and bark. Ksauma (linen) and Kauseya
(silk) were explicitly mentioned, denoting specialized fabrics. The practice of
wearing an upper and lower garment became more standardized, with the usnisa (turban) used on specific
occasions. Adhivdsa denoted an
upper garment, while prdvarana
referred to a wrapper or outer cover. Weaving and sewing were common practices.
Ornaments were worn by both men and women, including earrings, necklaces (niska), and ornaments like rukma. Flowers and garlands were
widely used, particularly during marriage ceremonies. Mirrors, collyrium
(kohl), and fragrant unguents were employed as aids to enhance beauty. Hair
styling was also important, with different styles and rituals related to
shaving the head and beard depending on religious or social circumstances.
The Epic
Age: Grandeur and Regional Variations
The
Ramayana and Mahabharata, the two great epics of India, provide vivid
descriptions of costumes, showcasing the grandeur of the era. Glittering robes
and Elaborate Ornaments were common, particularly among royalty and nobility.
Men typically wore two pieces of unstitched cloth – a lower garment (vastra) and an upper garment (uttariya). Women also wore an uttariya and an adhovastra. The mention of sucl (needle) and tunnavdya (tailor) in the Ramayana
suggests that stitched clothes were gaining acceptance, albeit perhaps for
specific purposes or for certain social classes. Kancukas (jackets) and usnlsas
(turbans) were often worn by attendants and soldiers. Wooden or leather sandals
were commonly used.
Ornaments
played a crucial role in signifying status and enhancing beauty. Kundala (ear-ornaments), hara (necklaces), hastabharana (bracelets), and ahgullyaka (rings) were widely worn.
Necklaces came in various styles, including graiveyaka, maid
hiranmayi, and niska.
Bracelets like ahgada, keyura, pdrihdrya, and valaya
were popular. Women likely wore girdles and Nupura (anklets with tinkling bells). Floral decorations were
used by both men and women. Hairstyling was a significant aspect of personal
presentation, with women often dividing their hair into two braids.
The
Mahabharata highlights regional variations in clothing, with festive attire of
the Ceylonese studded with jewels and the Kiratas of hilly regions wearing
animal skin. The epic also confirms the widespread use of gold ornaments, even
among men. Ear-rings were surprisingly common among males. Women's attire
included silk cloth (often red) for brides, necklaces, earrings, jewels, niska, conch-made items, and
bracelets.
The Age
of Puranas: Consolidation and Continued Refinement
The
Puranic age saw a consolidation of established trends in costume and adornment.
Cotton, silk, wool, and linen remained the primary materials. Prdvarana
(outer garments) were commonly mentioned. Hair was often shaved or styled, with
long, dishevelled hair generally considered undesirable. Unkempt beards were
also likely frowned upon. Head-dresses like usnisa and mukuta were common. Ornaments
included keyura, ahgada, and waistbands. Perfumes and
collyrium continued to be used.
Buddhism
and Simplicity
Pali
works provide insights into the garments of Buddhists, emphasizing simplicity
and functionality. The Dhammapada refers to people clothed in yellow robes, symbolizing
renunciation and detachment from worldly possessions.
In
conclusion, the costumes of Ancient India were a reflection of the diverse
cultural, social, and economic landscape of the subcontinent. From the simple
yet functional garments of the Vedic age to the elaborate and ornamented attire
of the epic and Puranic periods, clothing served not only as a practical
necessity but also as a powerful means of expressing identity, status, and
religious affiliation. The legacy of these ancient traditions continues to
influence Indian fashion and culture to this day.
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